Anatomy of the perfect spaghetti ragu

Andrea Michelon (Ombra)

“This recipe is actually my grandmother's, Nonna Lara, who's 94.  She is a daughter of a butcher, so that's where she got her experience with meat.

You start with frying onion, carrot and celery with some salt and a bay leaf in oil. Next, it's the meat. I use half pork and half beef, so the the pork goes in first and that gets cooked off. Then I add the beef.

Next, it's a glass of wine and let it cook some more. Then I add the tomatoes – fresh – and finally the herbs and spices, nutmeg, cinnamon and whole cloves.

The whole thing should cook very slowly and takes about four hours in total. It's traditional from where I'm from in Italy – but don't get it mixed up with bolognese, from Bologna.

Although it's a similar dish, they often add a glass of milk and peas to it.”